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Vitamin C serum benefits: Forget the hype, here’s the truth about this popular ingredient

Are the benefits of this buzzworthy skincare ingredient worth the spend. Or is it all just hype?
A woman smiles brightly applying a vitamin C serum
MoleMap Team
August 19, 2024
8 minutes

There are many vitamin C serum benefits—from brighter skin, reduced redness and hyperpigmentation to a more youthful, glowy complexion. But how does vitamin C work? Are all vitamin C serums equal? And is vitamin C serum worth the spend? Keep reading to find out everything you need to know about this popular skincare ingredient.

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What is vitamin C and how does it work?

Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid or L-ascorbic acid is a powerful antioxidant (more on this in a moment). It’s a natural component in healthy skin. As we age, vitamin C content in the skin declines—leading to dull, uneven skin.

Hint: unprotected sun exposure can speed up this process. 

Now, back to antioxidants. Think of them as the superheroes of your skincare routine. Picture this: your skin is like a city, constantly under attack from free radicals (the villains) that can cause damage and premature ageing. Antioxidants, like Vitamin C, swoop in like caped crusaders to save the day. They neutralise those pesky free radicals, protecting your skin from harm and keeping it looking fresh and youthful. But that’s not the only benefit of using vitamin C serum. 

The benefits of vitamin C serum

Vitamin C is a multi-tasking marvel that’s suitable for all skin types. (Yes, that includes acne-prone, oily and dry skin—although a patch test is recommended.) The benefits of vitamin C face serum include:

Brightens skin

Vitamin C hampers the body’s melanin production (that’s the pigment that gives your skin colour). Less melanin means less pigmentation and fewer dark spots , leaving your skin brighter and more even. 

Remember that the overzealous production of melanin is linked to skin trauma, which can be caused by overexposure to the sun. Want a bright and luminous complexion? Don’t forget to include sunscreen as part of your daily skincare regimen. 

Reduces fine lines and wrinkles

As we age, our natural collagen production declines. This can lead to sagging, fine lines, and wrinkles. But this is where vitamin C serum plays a role. 

Think of vitamin C as collagen’s personal trainer. Applying vitamin C serum is like giving your skin a pep talk. It encourages it to get to work and produce more collagen. This is the protein responsible for keeping your skin plump and firm, which helps reduce fine lines and wrinkles. Hello fresh and youthful skin!

Vitamin C is also known to replenish vitamin E in the skin. This enhances skin hydration, prevents water loss and keeps the skin plump. 

Useful for acne skin

The anti-inflammatory properties of vitamin C can help reduce the redness and swelling associated with inflammatory skin conditions. While there’s no guarantee that slathering vitamin C serum on your face will prevent or reduce acne, it may help acne skin look a little less angry.

Supports skin healing

By boosting collagen production, vitamin C serum indirectly promotes cell regeneration and renewal. This helps wounds to heal quicker. It may also reduce visual scarring, thanks to the brightening powers we mentioned earlier. 

Protects skin from damage

Every day our skin is bombarded by pollutants, and all sorts of nasty chemicals that trigger free radical damage in the skin. By forming a protective barrier on your skin, vitamin C can help prevent outside enemies from wreaking havoc on your complexion. 

What’s more, the antioxidants in vitamin C serum help to stabilise free radicals, reducing the harm they can cause to the skin.

Young lady with freckles in her face applies a vitamin C serum on her face.
Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid or L-ascorbic acid is a powerful antioxidant. The benefits of vitamin C face serum include: brighter skin, reduced redness and hyperpigmentation, and a more youthful, glowy complexion.

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Are all vitamin C serums equal?

In short, no. Several factors can affect the quality and efficacy of your vitamin C serum. Here are a few things to look for.

  • The type of vitamin C serum — L-ascorbic acid is the most active and researched form of vitamin C. Check the label for less effective types such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or ascorbyl palmitate.
  • The concentration — Lower concentrations of vitamin C may not deliver the benefits you’re expecting. Ideally, choose a serum containing 10-20% L-ascorbic acid. 
  • What other ingredients does it contain? — Some vitamin C serums contain ingredients that help boost the product’s efficacy. For example, vitamin E helps stabilise vitamin C. Like vitamin C, it also has antioxidant properties for the ultimate double attack on ruthless free radicals. Hyaluronic acid and vitamin C is another great combo. While vitamin C brightens and protects, hyaluronic acid hydrates and plumps. 

Potential side effects of vitamin C serum

Most people can use vitamin C serum without experiencing any side effects. In rare cases, side effects may include redness, irritation, stinging, and dryness. Despite vitamin C’s good safety profile, it’s a good idea to do a patch test first — just to be sure. This little test will give you a sneak peek into how your skin might react to the serum.

If you have especially sensitive or reactive skin, you might prefer a vitamin C serum containing magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. This is known to be less irritating than L-ascorbic acid.

Vitamin C can sometimes act up when mixed with other active ingredients, like retinol or other acids. This can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight, so don't forget to slather on that sunscreen after using a vitamin C serum. 

Can I use vitamin C and sunscreen together?

Absolutely, vitamin C serum and sunscreen are a match made in skincare heaven. While the antioxidants in vitamin C may help defend the skin against UV damage, vitamin C serum is not a replacement for sunscreen. Yet, combining the two gives you a double dose of protection against free radicals. Wondering how to use vitamin C serum and sunscreen? For best results, apply vitamin C serum under your sunscreen.

Young lady applies a vitamin c serum on her face while wearing a towel wrapped around her hair.
Combining vitamin C serum and sunscreen gives you a double dose of protection against free radicals. For best results, apply vitamin C serum under your sunscreen.

Adding vitamin C serum into your daily skincare regime

You can apply vitamin C serum to the skin any time of the day. If using other active ingredients, such as retinol or alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), you may prefer to apply Vitamin C in the morning and the other actives at night. This will help to avoid potential irritation. 

If using vitamin C serum as part of your morning skincare regime:

  1. Thoroughly cleanse face
  2. Apply a few drops of vitamin C serum to your face and neck
  3. Moisturise to hydrate and seal in the vitamin C serum
  4. Apply a high-protection, broad-spectrum sunscreen

Are vitamin C serums worth it?

There are plenty of benefits to using vitamin C serum on your face. For best results, be consistent with your application. The golden rule is that it takes at least four weeks to see changes. Although, there are some benefits that are not visible. Such as the battle taking place between antioxidants and free radicals.  

Ultimately, if you’re seeking to enhance the radiance and texture of your skin while shielding it from environmental harm, it’s worth giving this powerhouse ingredient a go.  

MoleMap Team

At MoleMap we check, detect and treat skin cancer. Find out how you can protect your skin at your nearest MoleMap skin cancer clinic.

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